- #Sky panprama 360 ptgui how to
- #Sky panprama 360 ptgui Patch
- #Sky panprama 360 ptgui full
- #Sky panprama 360 ptgui plus
With that type of setup, you really couldn't do a scene with a lot of action in it.
#Sky panprama 360 ptgui plus
I would do 3 rows of 8 plus the zenith and nadir shots to get a decently sharp pano. So you would need more shots to complete the pano. The Rokinon would be my first fisheye lens (which I got this summer), As is my Canon 500D my first dslr (which btw on your 600D) I've used converter lenses that go on top of your existing lens, and you could make an okay pano with those, but you had to zoom in some to crop out the bad color fringing on the outsides.
#Sky panprama 360 ptgui how to
They also pointed out a tutorial on how to shave the lens hood off, which makes it circular and also would let you put filters on it, if you had an adapter. I posted on the Nodal Ninja forum, trying to figure out a less expensive lens to buy, and people there seem to like it. These are all on amazon, which I'm not sure if you can buy from there, or you could do ebay.įrom what I was told out of all of them, the best one to get is the Rokinon. Besides the ones you mentioned there are also. That does look like the Rokinon, but there are several variations of it like you mentioned, and I don't think they are all exactly the same. If you move the panorama as-is up or down, you will add blank space and may also introduce distortion into the panorama.
#Sky panprama 360 ptgui Patch
Usually I shoot 3 nadir images, 2 straight down with the tripod in the image and one displaced image shooting the original location of the tripod, to patch the nadir where the tripod is located. In the future, you will need to take a straight up (zenith) shot (for the uppermost area of the panorama) and at least one straight down (nadir) shot to complete the bottom edge of the panorama. If you expand the FOV of your panorama to 360 x 180 in PTGui you will have areas that are blank (without image).
#Sky panprama 360 ptgui full
This won't get you a full spherical panoramic image that is, you do not have complete zenith or nadir data. This is because a "full frame fisheye" has a DIAGONAL FOV of 180° not a vertical FOV of 180°. If I'm understanding the workflow - your friend shot 6 around with the 15mm full frame fisheye and a 5DmkII oriented in portrait mode, leveled to the horizon.
I guess it also depends on what kind of panoramic head you are using, I use a nodal ninja 3, (wish I waited for the NN4 ) Its hard though to take a downward picture freehand, if you don't have something like this -Įven if you use the tilted tripod method, it still takes some work. One thing I like about nadir shots, is that its easier to mask out the same down shot without a tripod, without having to export the whole pano to another projection, with cubic, to mask the tripod out. I think a good overlap is 33%, but I'm not totally certain. It all depends on how much overlap you want. I think even if you only need 4 shots horizontally, you would still need an up and down. Although the exact numbers probably aren't accurate, since there is no 5D preset (I used the 1D), so you'll have to enter the senser H x W size, to find out for yourself. So according to this, yeah you would need an up and down. For 20% overlap you would need 6.5 images. Using the last hdrlabs calculator for a 15mm lens with 100% size, it calculated that for one shot -Īnd for a horizontal 360 panorama with 25% overlap in portrait you would need 7 images. Here are some FOV calculators and projections info links. Even if I had an 8mm fisheye with a full sensor, I still might, because more shots means a sharper pano. Even then, I would still shoot up and down. I think you would have to have something like 10mm or 11mm to get full coverage. It's probably true you don't have a wide enough vertical FOV even in portrait mode with a full sensor.
Could you post a screen of your editor workspace?
0 kommentar(er)
